The battery is usually the most expensive part of an e-bike — often $800 to $1,500 to replace. Its state of health (SoH) tells you how much of its original capacity is left.
What the number means
- 90–100% — like new.
- 80–90% — normal for a bike a few years old. You will barely notice.
- 70–80% — noticeably shorter range. Price it in.
- Under 70% — getting near the end of its useful life.
How to check it
- The maker’s app or display. Many big-brand systems show battery health or charge cycles in their app, or a dealer can read it with their diagnostic tool.
- A shop diagnostic report is the strongest evidence a buyer can check.
- A capacity test works for any battery: a full discharge on a tester shows the real capacity in watt-hours.
Make it last
- Store it around half charged if you won’t ride for a few weeks.
- Keep it out of the sun and hot cars.
- Use the original charger.
- Charge on a hard surface, away from exits, and not while you sleep.
Safety first
Stop using a battery that is swollen, cracked, leaking, smells, or gets hot. Never buy one with damage — EbikeMate does not allow swollen or damaged batteries to be listed at all. Lithium batteries over 100 Wh cannot be posted in Australia, so batteries on EbikeMate are pickup only. Our battery rules.
This guide explains things in general terms. It is not legal advice. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.